- Alexander Cheban (
alexcheban ) wrote,
Gandruk village, Annapurna region, Nepal.
Small alpine village in the Himalayas, magical nature, bright colors of the mountains and the complex life of ordinary people. How to learn to ignore the global financial turmoil, how to live out of politics and civilization? What can we find out if turn off the tourist trail ...
Mountains ...
White spiky vosmitysyachnki carotid reflex morning sun. This is the first that sees every morning, leaving the house, the little boy with the beautiful name of Susan. He's only seven, he lives in a cozy alpine village Gandruk, which lost in the web of the Himalayas in the north-eastern Nepal. The sun's rays have already filled the small courtyard of his house. While waiting for my mother prepared for him tea with cake, chapatti, Susan with fervent laughter cuts turns on a homemade swing with his younger sister. We, Europeans pedantic, is striking in its simplicity and poverty ascetic life of this welcoming Nepali family. One-storey house is divided into two sectors: residential and commercial courts. Spacious living room with a critical low for European ceiling envelops us pall of acrid smoke. Campfire cooking divorced on the floor in the room and ventilation provided tiny windows and a door that is always kept open. Under the walls are wooden beds, beds, on the few shelves guileless cosmetic utensils and rare books. On the walls of a mandatory attribute of the Nepalese family - photos. Under the low ceiling and dried strange plants, introducing some variety in smog from fire-divorced. Internet, computer, TV, phone ... these people live without such familiar to us wealth for hundreds of years and probably will not feel the need for this and the next one.
In Nepal, live the most open people I have ever met in the world. Sumin, mother Susana, kindly invited us to his, with a sincere smile and hospitality shows the device in their homes. "Here lives our cow," she said, pointing to a small shed, "here Susan makes the lessons" - pointing to the desk in the darkest corner of the room. They have two children, his father works as a laborer in the capital, as in a small village, you can just deal with agriculture. Small terrace in front of the house is used to sort the grain of local corn, look to it can not cover all the splendor and freshness of the Himalayan scenery around.
They are very poor but extremely accurate and cleanly in all, we did not see debris or carelessly discarded wrappers anywhere in this village. And even the little Susan, who has replaced an old torn tee shirt for a neat blue uniforms on the way to the temple of knowledge is required to run to the washstand to wash before entering the class - in this country is not accepted to enter the class with dusty hands or face.
Susanna was lucky, his school is located in the same village is only ten minutes walk away. But not all of his classmates daily path to knowledge is light so: from neighboring villages children go to 1.5-2 hours one way on foot in any weather overcoming five meter height differences on narrow slippery mountain trails. Civilization, the school bus? In these parts do not, around the mountains and forests, to the nearest city with road links two days on foot and by foot! But there are people who simply delighted to be able to live and see around this is a gift from God, the splendor of the Himalayas.
At school, 8th grade 15-25 children in each of all the surrounding villages. Every morning, all classes are going on line in the schoolyard, lining up in rows in unison singing the national anthem to the rhythmic drum beats Director, followed by a gleeful shrieks flee in their classes. But this morning was a bit unusual for the second class came to school with Susanna, we unwittingly made him the hero of the day. Tile Ukrainian chocolate, donated by the morning, migrated to the school bag boy, he always treats to share with classmates, in the country in high esteem generosity inculcated society from infancy each small Nepalese.
Rebyatnya surrounded us a dense ring, demanding more and more pictures just for the right to look at themselves in the small screen of the camera. Certainly not opposed to the teacher of photography and this friendly class. Smiling and very strict with not mean middle-aged woman came to class with words of welcome at the class replied in unison, "Thank you, Master," and only after that the children took their places. What is a classroom? This is a small room on the ground floor with window openings without glass with bare stone walls and old wooden benches. But what do you do when it's cold and winter ?, - we asked reasonably. What they heard in response to the uncertain "and how much of the winter?". At school, 10 teachers, 7 of them have public funding, and the remaining 3 teachers are paid out of the money that is collected together chipped "state" teachers. In Nepal, the literacy rate of the population of 43%. Primary school education is free, the teachers say that children were willing to lessons of pedagogical preferences isolated lessons in English and mathematics. In the latter ninth grade is the only one achiever receives state law to go to university. Over the past two years after the overthrow of the monarchy and the establishment of a democratic republic in Nepal, the state one of the main priorities puts access to schooling, even in the most remote mountain villages. On the walls of this school and tell us homemade placards slogans and chants. As elsewhere in the country is unpretentious and simple, without modern projectors and slide in this mountainous school teacher carefully displays the letters on the board of the native language Nepali.
After making a few shots we go outside and notice another class circle Housed on the grass around the teacher. The kids take turns coming to the teacher with the task performed in a notebook and get the following. Nothing is more conducive to learning, as the crystal clear air and the mountains around.
What is living this village at an altitude of 2000 meters away from the road and bustle? Partly due to the tourist industry going through her trekingovoj path, partly at the expense of small-scale agriculture. "How are you doing with health care?" - I asked the director of the school. He said that the assistance available from the health point, but free only to students during training, and that doctors do not have, there is only a nurse. What reminds Ukrainian province, is not it? Yes, but with the difference that came to the clinic in Nepal, I really saw a big list of all available (!) In the presence of drugs, despite the fact that they are delivered here on the shoulders of porters-porters.
Constantly coming phrase "in that God-forsaken, location" is not relevant here, then no one is forgotten. Happy people live here. At this point, do not know about the financial shocks, do not follow the rates and quotes, not in a hurry and do not try to catch up.
We went to different families, talking with different people, but all remained unchanged genuine emotions of joy and goodwill of the meeting on the faces of new friends. There are hundreds of years old, day after day bright sun illuminates the white spiky peaks and carefully caresses honest hardworking Nepali people.
Returning home, doing lessons and giving mom a farewell evening kiss, little Susan will look into the distance and see ... the mountains. This is the last thing he sees every night, closing his eyes.
Afterword ...
It's been 2 years, and it so happened that my friend was back in those places ... He found Susana matured with little sister and gave them pictures! :)
Other reports on the schools and the education system in different countries in a series of "Asian class":
White spiky vosmitysyachnki carotid reflex morning sun. This is the first that sees every morning, leaving the house, the little boy with the beautiful name of Susan. He's only seven, he lives in a cozy alpine village Gandruk, which lost in the web of the Himalayas in the north-eastern Nepal. The sun's rays have already filled the small courtyard of his house. While waiting for my mother prepared for him tea with cake, chapatti, Susan with fervent laughter cuts turns on a homemade swing with his younger sister. We, Europeans pedantic, is striking in its simplicity and poverty ascetic life of this welcoming Nepali family. One-storey house is divided into two sectors: residential and commercial courts. Spacious living room with a critical low for European ceiling envelops us pall of acrid smoke. Campfire cooking divorced on the floor in the room and ventilation provided tiny windows and a door that is always kept open. Under the walls are wooden beds, beds, on the few shelves guileless cosmetic utensils and rare books. On the walls of a mandatory attribute of the Nepalese family - photos. Under the low ceiling and dried strange plants, introducing some variety in smog from fire-divorced. Internet, computer, TV, phone ... these people live without such familiar to us wealth for hundreds of years and probably will not feel the need for this and the next one.
In Nepal, live the most open people I have ever met in the world. Sumin, mother Susana, kindly invited us to his, with a sincere smile and hospitality shows the device in their homes. "Here lives our cow," she said, pointing to a small shed, "here Susan makes the lessons" - pointing to the desk in the darkest corner of the room. They have two children, his father works as a laborer in the capital, as in a small village, you can just deal with agriculture. Small terrace in front of the house is used to sort the grain of local corn, look to it can not cover all the splendor and freshness of the Himalayan scenery around.
They are very poor but extremely accurate and cleanly in all, we did not see debris or carelessly discarded wrappers anywhere in this village. And even the little Susan, who has replaced an old torn tee shirt for a neat blue uniforms on the way to the temple of knowledge is required to run to the washstand to wash before entering the class - in this country is not accepted to enter the class with dusty hands or face.
Susanna was lucky, his school is located in the same village is only ten minutes walk away. But not all of his classmates daily path to knowledge is light so: from neighboring villages children go to 1.5-2 hours one way on foot in any weather overcoming five meter height differences on narrow slippery mountain trails. Civilization, the school bus? In these parts do not, around the mountains and forests, to the nearest city with road links two days on foot and by foot! But there are people who simply delighted to be able to live and see around this is a gift from God, the splendor of the Himalayas.
At school, 8th grade 15-25 children in each of all the surrounding villages. Every morning, all classes are going on line in the schoolyard, lining up in rows in unison singing the national anthem to the rhythmic drum beats Director, followed by a gleeful shrieks flee in their classes. But this morning was a bit unusual for the second class came to school with Susanna, we unwittingly made him the hero of the day. Tile Ukrainian chocolate, donated by the morning, migrated to the school bag boy, he always treats to share with classmates, in the country in high esteem generosity inculcated society from infancy each small Nepalese.
Rebyatnya surrounded us a dense ring, demanding more and more pictures just for the right to look at themselves in the small screen of the camera. Certainly not opposed to the teacher of photography and this friendly class. Smiling and very strict with not mean middle-aged woman came to class with words of welcome at the class replied in unison, "Thank you, Master," and only after that the children took their places. What is a classroom? This is a small room on the ground floor with window openings without glass with bare stone walls and old wooden benches. But what do you do when it's cold and winter ?, - we asked reasonably. What they heard in response to the uncertain "and how much of the winter?". At school, 10 teachers, 7 of them have public funding, and the remaining 3 teachers are paid out of the money that is collected together chipped "state" teachers. In Nepal, the literacy rate of the population of 43%. Primary school education is free, the teachers say that children were willing to lessons of pedagogical preferences isolated lessons in English and mathematics. In the latter ninth grade is the only one achiever receives state law to go to university. Over the past two years after the overthrow of the monarchy and the establishment of a democratic republic in Nepal, the state one of the main priorities puts access to schooling, even in the most remote mountain villages. On the walls of this school and tell us homemade placards slogans and chants. As elsewhere in the country is unpretentious and simple, without modern projectors and slide in this mountainous school teacher carefully displays the letters on the board of the native language Nepali.
After making a few shots we go outside and notice another class circle Housed on the grass around the teacher. The kids take turns coming to the teacher with the task performed in a notebook and get the following. Nothing is more conducive to learning, as the crystal clear air and the mountains around.
What is living this village at an altitude of 2000 meters away from the road and bustle? Partly due to the tourist industry going through her trekingovoj path, partly at the expense of small-scale agriculture. "How are you doing with health care?" - I asked the director of the school. He said that the assistance available from the health point, but free only to students during training, and that doctors do not have, there is only a nurse. What reminds Ukrainian province, is not it? Yes, but with the difference that came to the clinic in Nepal, I really saw a big list of all available (!) In the presence of drugs, despite the fact that they are delivered here on the shoulders of porters-porters.
Constantly coming phrase "in that God-forsaken, location" is not relevant here, then no one is forgotten. Happy people live here. At this point, do not know about the financial shocks, do not follow the rates and quotes, not in a hurry and do not try to catch up.
We went to different families, talking with different people, but all remained unchanged genuine emotions of joy and goodwill of the meeting on the faces of new friends. There are hundreds of years old, day after day bright sun illuminates the white spiky peaks and carefully caresses honest hardworking Nepali people.
Returning home, doing lessons and giving mom a farewell evening kiss, little Susan will look into the distance and see ... the mountains. This is the last thing he sees every night, closing his eyes.
Afterword ...
It's been 2 years, and it so happened that my friend was back in those places ... He found Susana matured with little sister and gave them pictures! :)
Other reports on the schools and the education system in different countries in a series of "Asian class":
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